Are You That Woman

Discover the Lost Coast

The Lost Coast is aptly named for a reason.  If you’ve never traveled to this hidden corner of Humboldt County, you can’t begin to appreciate just how lost it is.  The region is so remote, that it’s hard to imagine how early settlers found their way to places like Shelter Cove and Whitethorn.

Any trip to Shelter Cove requires determination. No matter your starting point, remote highways will test your GPS and patience to take it slow. Leaving Highway 101 at Redway, you traverse many miles of narrow two-lane roads – twisting and turning. You’ll climb through forests of the King Range National Conservation Area and mountain peaks where snow falls above 3,281 feet a couple of times per year. Perseverance will bring you, at long last, to the Pacific Ocean views.

The Lost Coast is one of California's largest wilderness areas, with 67,500 acres of undeveloped land. It also contains the longest undeveloped Pacific coastline (The Lost Coast) in the continental United States. Hikers and backpackers seek solitude and magnitude. Many miles long, the Lost Coast Trail (more than 24 miles from north to south) requires a Backcountry Permit for overnight camping.

Happy memories of Shelter Cover remained the same. There have been some wonderful changes in the 18 years since my last visit, including new restaurant offerings and local brews. Considering Shelter Cove’s remote location, dining selections are excellent. However, it’s best to call ahead for times and days of operation. Visiting in mid-October, we found many locations closed during the week – sometimes only open Thursday-Sunday. We enjoyed local cuisine including a divine breakfast at the Surf Point Coffee & Bistro.  Featuring house-made baked goods and local coffee, the bistro is open for breakfast and lunch. The Eggs Benedict was superb. Gyppo Ale Mill was our dining option for two nights of our Shelter Cove stay. Cold beers on tap - great selections brewed in-house. The first night we shared fish tacos - locally, incredibly fresh Rockfish. They were so yummy; more than enough for the two of us. A Venezuelan restaurant, Mi Mochima, serves authentic and delectable cuisine. We enjoyed sangria, fresh fish, yucca fries, and empanadas. Plan ahead; they are very popular.

The journey to scenic beauty and astonishing adventures is endless. Take Beach Road to Black Sands Beach just north of Shelter Cove. Enjoy hiking and awe-inspiring ocean views.  Commercial fishing is a historic part of Shelter Cove’s past and present. Both local and visiting anglers come to cast their lines at this coastal location. The drive to explore the Redwoods Monastery was another long and winding road. The website said we could buy honey and other gift items from their shop. That was enough to entice us to drive the 15 miles (taking longer than imagined) from our Shelter Cove Inn. Founded in 1962 from the Cistercian Monastery of Nazareth in Belgium, Redwoods Monastery is a small community of Roman Catholic women monastic’s.  The story of how they made their way to this remote corner of Humboldt County is more than remarkable.

This was an accidental adventure we'll never forget. The wide meadow provides an unobstructed view of all the Monastery buildings. The construction is almost entirely coast redwoods with some concrete accents. At first look, we noticed the minimalism, but the most amazing part was the chapel. Once inside, we were overwhelmed by its elegant simplicity. Large windows streamed light into the room. The silence was ringing in our ears. Out of respect, we took no photos. It was an emotional moment. From there, we went to the gift shop and purchased jars of Monastery creamed honey, lavender soap, and beautiful cards featuring native flowers. Private and silent retreats, allow visitors to spend days/nights at the Monastery, must be booked well in advance.

There are several lodging options including hotels, campgrounds, and vacation rentals. Be sure to book ahead. Shelter Cove is most definitely a bucket list destination.


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Set your GPS for local Farmers Brewing

Taking the roads less traveled leads to great discoveries. I have found this to be true time and time again.

It had been about six years since we wandered to the little known town of Princelton, California. A back road adventure, we knocked on the office door and asked for a tour of the taproom. The tasting room was brand new and only open on weekends (then and now). We were new to Farmers Brewing, but that didn't last long.

A cold and rainy April 27, 2025, we went for a Sunday drive and happily found ourselves at the Princeton brewery again. A stroke of luck, but everything happens for a reason.  A good crowd included many regulars. I enjoyed a Thai Mango Farmers Light and Mike had a lager. We enjoyed street tacos from a Willows pop-up. Ashley Ness, Manager and brewer, provided 5-star smiles and hospitality. The taproom, light and airy, is housed inside the brewery. Plenty of seats at the bar and tables throughout. Picnic tables out front. Glad we took the roads less traveled from Chico. We won't wait another six years to return to share this 5-star destination.

There's another Farmers Brewing Taproom and Restaurant in Chico. Their beers are available at many retail outlets. You can purchase cases and growlers at the taproom in Princeton, too.

Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary is still one of a kind

California claims many distinctive attractions and Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary, in Freestone, is definitely one-of-a-kind.  Leave your cares at the front door, along with your shoes, as you embark on an experience available nowhere else in the United States.  There are hardly words to describe the sublime nature of this Japanese therapy – a cedar enzyme bath. This coupled with the beautiful gardens and atmosphere of the sanctuary, well, you must see it to understand just how special it is. From the moment you enter, you feel all stress begin to fall away. A sign above the garden entrance in Japanese says, "E Kimochi," which translated means "a very nice feeling."

The osmosis begins when your personal attendant escorts you to a Japanese-style sitting room with views of a Japanese bonsai garden and waterfall created by the owner. After serving you herbal tea mixed with enzymes, you are left to enjoy the meditative sights and sounds of the garden which is only available with cedar enzyme and spa package experiences. Following a brief respite, you are escorted to an (un)dressing room where you’ll don a warm cotton kimono; and then into the enzyme baths.

Discovered in Japan, an enzyme bath is a unique form of heat therapy that helps the body break down toxins, improves circulation, and cleanses and beautifies skin.  Unlike a mud bath that combines volcanic ash and peat and heat from thermal sulfur water, an enzyme bath is a mixture of fragrant cedar, rice bran, and more than 600 active enzymes and generates heat naturally through fermentation. In redwood tubs, this aromatic mixture covers bathers for 20 minutes. The blend is light and airy so hands and feet are easily exposed if you prefer less heat. Sliding glass shoji doors allow you to enjoy the Japanese rock and bonsai garden, green hills beyond, and cool, fresh air. Your ever-watchful attendant periodically wipes your face with a cold cloth and offers you cool sips of water.

Once you are enveloped in the cedar enzyme bath you'll wonder why you hadn't done this sooner and ask yourself, "How soon can I do this again?"  Following the bath and a shower, you can conclude with a 70-minute massage with one of several certified massage therapists. Massage rooms for singles and couples are available in the main building. However, for an additional fee, I prefer the two Japanese massage pagodas in a lovely wooded area beside the creek.

I have enjoyed Osmosis more than once over the years. The Japanese Meditation Garden includes a bed of chamomile. Could it get any better? It did with the addition of a Sound Healing Garden and its Field of Hammocks! Enhance the experience with meta-sync sound music; unique recordings that promote deep relaxation and creativity.

If you're lucky enough to visit Friday through Monday, visit Wild Flour Bread across the road. This bakery is to bread what Osmosis is to the "ahhh" in spa.

Osmosis is a treat alone, with friends, with lovers. Some would say the experience is pricey, but that's misleading. It's not inexpensive, but it's worth the cost and much less expensive than other spas I have visited. The ambiance is over the top.

Take your time. Enjoy the drive to this darling Sonoma County hamlet. You'll want to find a place to stay nearby while all the wonderfulness takes over. Unwind. Let go. And let Osmosis.

Recommendations:
A cedar bath and massage will last 2-3 hours.  Depending on your drive time, you should plan to spend the night nearby; you’ll be too relaxed to drive home. Or arrive a day early and spend two nights. No need to rush, enjoy the beauty of West Sonoma County, and explore charming villages like Occidental and Jenner-by-Sea. Fresh seafood, of course, is a big attraction in Bodega Bay. On our recent visit and winter escape, we found quiet comfort at the Bodega Bay Inn, just a short drive from Freestone and Osmosis. A local culinary destination, Terrapin Creek Cafe, is a short walk across their parking lot. Journey up Coleman Valley Road to another singular experience at Western Hills Garden. This twisting and winding road will take you over the Sonoma hills to spectacular views stretching out to the ocean and down to Jenner.

Relaxed and rejuvenated the idyllic Sonoma countryside awaits. Osmosis Day Spa & Sanctuary is just one hour north of San Francisco and just minutes away from Bodega Bay and the scenic Pacific Coast Highway.