Evening on the Yuba
They flit and float
Wings aflutter.
In gathering darkness
Their bodies quiver.
They kiss the water
In an elusive dance.
And we watch the bats boogie
Above the river.
Barbara L. Steinberg
June 2, 2004
Rainbow Lodge
Soda Springs, CA
Dear Mono Lake friends,
I'm writing to you from my desk at home, and due to the COVID-19 virus it's likely you are reading this at home too.
I'd like to provide three important updates from the Mono Lake Committee.
First, we are doing our part to flatten the curve and following all state and local orders. We have suspended our public programs, closed the Information Center & Bookstore, and canceled our field education programs through April.
Second, I am proud to say that thanks to strong member support we are keeping all of our staff employed at this challenging time. We are all working from home, learning new tools for digital connectivity, and continuing the essential work of the Committee. For example, water exports are underway today in the Los Angeles Aqueduct and we know you count on us to make sure that the export rules are followed so that Mono Lake and its tributary streams stay protected.
Lastly, we are making extra efforts to share Mono Lake, the arriving birds, springtime flowers, and scenic views with all of you. We are fortunate to be sheltering in this remarkable place where the ancient rhythms of life continue in plain sight. When Committee staff are safely and appropriately outside, we will capture experiences to share with you through a new series of online Mono Lake Moments. A snowy boardwalk visit is already available with new live and recorded events happening every Wednesday and Friday at 2:00pm PDT.
This crisis is urgent. This is a time to support each other and nurture our communities. It challenges us to come together and sheds new light on our core values—indeed they are more meaningful than ever. Stay well, and thank you for your continued support.
Sincerely,
Geoffrey McQuilkin
Executive Director
The window between autumn and winter is quickly closing. Only yesterday it was summer. Winds are lifting the treetops and sweeping diamond lights across the lake. Birds reclaim homesteads, crying raucous above the silence.
Human sounds have retreated replaced by the sounds of creaking pine limbs and bird voices. The lake laps at the shoreline. Boats sit empty longing for the return of spring. A doe, with liquid black eyes, moves past without a sound and nibbles fading willow and grasses.
Dry pine needles rain down.
Snow flies soon.
Barbara L. Steinberg
September 16, 2013
Packer Lake Lodge
Names of iconic landmarks remain as they were, now and forever. Links redirect to current names.
In winter, a hush and holy stillness settles over Yosemite National Park. It is, by any standards, a most magical and enchanting time to visit. On peaceful walks, you can easily imagine John Muir's first sighting of these granite domes and thundering waterfalls. In the chill of the day, under sapphire skies, the howls of coyotes drift across the Valley and mingle with mist floating above the meadows.
During this season, Yosemite’s waterfalls come roaring back to life courtesy of winter snow and rain. Any visit should include a hike to Yosemite Falls. Stream-fed, the voice of Yosemite Falls is a constant this time of year. The reality that this is the highest waterfall in North America is drowned out by the crashing din, “it’s overwhelming – dizzying,” says one couple. The word ‘awesome’ simply isn’t enough.” In the morning chill, early risers are treated to snow showers created by the fall’s spray.
During warmer months, visitors from around the world flock to Yosemite. Post-summer and autumn, the visitor tide ebbs, heralding an unhurried transition into a frosty hibernation. Following major holidays, Yosemite settles down for a winter nap. Less traffic in, out and around the Park is a bonus, not to mention that accommodations are more attainable.
Opened in 1927, the majestic lady of Yosemite is The Ahwahnee hotel. This celebrated Four-Diamond resort perches grandly amid the pines and by the granite Royal Arches. The Ahwahnee’s regal architectural details combine the best of the Art Deco and Arts and Crafts movements with a splash of Native American and Middle Eastern influences. Spacious common areas, 99 elegantly appointed rooms and 24 cottages offer exceptional romantic appeal and stunning views of Half Dome, Glacier Point and Yosemite Falls – three of Yosemite’s most famous natural landmarks.
Sun-drenched days in Yosemite Valley can be warm, but anytime is optimal for snuggling in front of a roaring fire. The Ahwahnee’s massive stone fireplaces and comfortable lounges offer reprieves from the cold. Guests Linda and Brad retreat to the Great Lounge to relax and read. “They wait on you hand and foot,” say Linda and Brad. Celebrating their anniversary, they both agree that, “If we could only go to one place, it would be Yosemite.”
Yosemite Village is an easy walk or shuttle ride from The Ahwahnee and other valley lodgings. Leave your vehicle parked during your stay and take advantage of environmentally-friendly transit. Snow doesn’t stay long on the valley floor, so walks and hikes are always possible. You don’t have to be a rugged outdoors person to enjoy Yosemite. Walk outside and you’ll see things you won’t find anywhere else on earth – relish the peace and quiet. There’s plenty of that in winter.
Besides the usual seasonal pursuits, indulge in some retail therapy at the hotel gift shop and world-famous Ansel Adams Gallery. Interpretive displays at the Yosemite Museum depict the rich heritage of the Valley and its native people the Ahwahneechee. An exhibit of Native American basketry by Lucy and Julia Parker is renowned.
Food, Glorious Food! Extraordinary celebrations are a given in Yosemite. The Ahwahnee dining room is a gourmet experience, with the heart of the menu steeped in California cuisine. Whenever possible, dishes feature both organic and sustainably-harvested, locally-grown ingredients. Heavenly combinations, just for starters, include an Artisan Cheese Board featuring California’s delectable Humboldt Fog, Fiscalini and Golden Valley cheeses and Membrillo, a luscious quince jelly. Or a new twist on an old favorite, El Capitan Deviled Eggs with pesto, arugula, and bourbon-cured bacon. Like days of old, this grand dame requests dinner attire – fitting accompaniment beside so much grandeur.
The Grand Grape Celebration is the ultimate for couples visiting Yosemite early November and December. Wine enthusiasts can avail themselves of six sessions and multi-night packages at The Ahwahnee or Yosemite Lodge at the Falls. Wine tasting seminars, private “Meet the Vintners” reception and a five-course gala dinner leave devotees delightfully giddy. Visitors are welcome, free of charge, at all seminars and panel discussions, and may also purchase gala dinner tickets.
A legendary gala, adapted from Washington Irving's "Sketch Book," Bracebridge Dinner marks its 91st year this winter. Trumpets announce the arrival of Squire Bracebridge and presentations of an elaborate seven-course feast are made on cue by the sounding of chimes during the performance. The main dining room of The Ahwahnee is transformed into an Elizabethan Yuletide pageant. Elaborate props, costumed characters, and period entertainment bring this 17th-century fête to life. You will, quite literally, be left speechless by this most sensory of celebrations. The experience of a lifetime, the always coveted Bracebridge tickets – eight December performances – are available online.
January would be Yosemite’s quietest month of the year were it not for the influx of food-and wine-minded guests who visit specifically to attend Taste of Yosemite, a gourmet treasure. Over the course of six weeks, acclaimed chefs from around the country come to The Ahwahnee to practice their culinary arts. Each session features a “Meet the Chefs” reception, cooking classes and demonstrations, and kitchen tours where you can visit The Ahwahnee’s pantry and see some of the original kitchen tools. The astonishing Gala Dinner is certain to send you into a gastronomic coma as five courses, paired with complementing wines, are crafted and prepared by each session’s guest chef. Bejeweled by tapered candlelight, there couldn’t be a more exquisite setting then The Ahwahnee’s regal dining room.
Ultimate Escapes: Yearning to unwind and avoid the last vestiges of winter crowds in Yosemite Valley, but still want endless distractions? Head to the Wawona Hotel. It’s an escape to days of old: No TV. No phones. And limited Wi-Fi – what madness! Whether romance or family time is on the agenda, the Victorian-era Wawona Hotel provides the best of all possibilities. Located on the southern end of the Park, the oldest Yosemite accommodations (a National Historic Landmark) is reminiscent of a gentle southern belle, offering the epitome of hospitality. Known for its exceptional fare, the winter menu highlights local organic and seasonal foods, and breakfast is included with all rooms. Some rooms are European-style so, if you prefer, specify en-suite.
Outside Yosemite’s boundaries, elegant and historic lodging comes in many guises. Two miles from the Park’s southern entrance, the Four-Diamond rated Tenaya Lodge offers superb accommodations – nothing less than luxurious. Native American and western-style décor honors the hotel’s legendary namesake, Chief Tenaya, roaring fires, five seasonal restaurants, and heart-stopping scenery. Elegant lodge rooms and suites and cottages were recently remodeled. But wait, there is more!
After a day exploring, hiking, or snowshoeing unwind and indulge at Ascent the Spa. Inquire about kid activities and personalized babysitting services. While you wine and dine or soak up some sun, off-spring can unwind at the expanded arcade or indoor heated pool. When the snow flies, an open-air ice-skating rink provides miles of chilly smiles. Incidentally, pet friendly, yes! Indulge your loving pooch with a Pampered Pet Package.
Evergreen Lodge, off historic Highway 120, offers couples and families a rare opportunity to enjoy the little visited and secluded northwest corner of Yosemite National Park. Down Evergreen Road, Hetch Hetchy Valley is waiting. In the early 1920s, damming of the Tuolumne River created the 8-mile-long Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. While surrounding landscapes may be winter white, Hetch Hetchy is frequently spring-like and otherworldly. You’ll delight in fern grottoes, sunlit granite, crashing waterfalls and tree-frog wetlands. The bonus is that you can hike for hours undisturbed by other day-trippers.
Built in 1921, the main lodge houses a historic tavern and restaurant. After a day of hiking or skiing, a steaming bowl of apple and butternut squash soup with candied pecans or bacon-wrapped elk meatloaf with sweet potato puree, roasted Brussels sprouts and an oyster mushroom jus will fill that hunger void. Menus change seasonally to incorporate the finest local, organic and sustainable ingredients. Retire to the Great Room for roaring fires, s’mores, and classic films. Honeymooners, Kahdijah and Alistair, enjoyed five nights at Evergreen, “It’s amazing,” says Kahdijah, “we love it! Evergreen has a faraway feeling and we can still spend time in the Park.” A variety of fully furnished cabins and cottages accommodate up to six guests.
Scenic Highway 120 passes through the Gold Rush-era town of Groveland and provides year-round access to the Park. If you choose to stay outside the Park, this small town offers big hospitality. Embrace the warm welcome of the Three-Diamond Groveland Hotel. Seventeen uniquely decorated rooms provide outstanding lodging for adventures both in and out of Yosemite. Greeting guests since 1849, the hotel’s Cellar Door is known for its extraordinary cuisine and wines and boasts a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.
Rush Creek Lodge sits just half a mile from the Yosemite’s Highway 120 west entrance, providing an ideal launching point for exploration into all parts of Yosemite.
As temperatures drop and snow flies, nothing is quite as special as ice skating at Curry Village beneath the splendor of Half Dome and Glacier Point, the warmth of an outdoor fire ring and scrumptious winter s’mores…is a winter dream. Yosemite Valley lodges provide shuttle service to Badger Pass Ski Area. If there’s significant snow at Wawona, people cross-country ski on the golf course across the road. Built in 1878, the 130-foot Wawona Covered Bridge crosses the south fork of the Merced River and leads to the 1880s Pioneer History Center.
The road is closed to the Mariposa Grove, but you can still hike, cross-country ski or snowshoe to visit the giant sequoias – the largest living things on earth. YExplore Global Adventures offers Yosemite guided snowshoe treks to both the Mariposa and Tuolumne sequoia groves. Beginner or extended hikes to Dewey Point on the south rim of Yosemite Valley and photography workshops capture landscape views and the natural “firefall”, one of Yosemite’s most amazing spectacles.
Get Your Badger Pass On! Like an old friend, Badger Pass Ski Area is quaint and welcoming. Generations of parents and children have cut their skiing teeth at Badger Pass, California’s oldest downhill ski area. With more than 85 percent of the slopes devoted to beginner and intermediate levels, this is understandable. There’s no friendlier place for the little ones than the Badger Pups program that offers customized instruction, ages four to six. The sundeck at Badger Pass answers all your wintertime prayers. After time on the slopes or trails, you’ll be ready to enjoy lunch with a full view of downhill daredevils. After refueling and relaxing, embrace your sillier side with a little snow tubing. There are also daily ranger-led snowshoe walks.
Cross-country skiing, snowboarding and showshoeing experiences in and around Badger Pass are both scenic and serene. Miles of groomed trails and fresh powder are unsurpassed even for first-timers. For those with true gusto, the 10-plus mile trek to Glacier Point Ski Hut will reward you with stellar views of Yosemite Valley. Excursions to the rustic stone and log lodge include lodging, meals and layover activities. Experiencing Yosemite’s wintry-white back county and starlit skies? Simply priceless.
In snow season, access to Yosemite is via highways 140 (west) 41 (south), and 120 (north). These scenic byways pass by historic towns and untold scenic wonders. Enjoy the sights and an occasional stop along the way for sightseeing and shopping – antiques, art galleries, museums, state parks, trendy boutiques, and wineries – California’s past and present lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems. Even in sunny California, winter weather is unpredictable. It’s best to check ahead for road conditions and always travel with snow chains!Millions throng to see the splendor of Yosemite’s granite cliffs, cascading waterfalls, giant sequoias, and the magnificence made famous by the likes of John Muir and Ansel Adams. Retreat urban environs by way of traffic-laden highways. Soon, slow rolling valleys, wide-open spaces, neatly hemmed by fences, and carefully rowed orchards and vineyards lead to snow-capped peaks, the promise of winter, and Yosemite!
Fall Foliage in California: Places to Go, Colors to See
Summer’s golden, sun-filled hours have shortened and the evening air is turning crisp and cool, Mother Nature takes her cue to begin a spectacular and colorful show of fall foliage in the Golden State. Autumn’s palette of deep reds, glowing yellows and warm, earthy browns may be enjoyed in many of California’s regions. Visitors taking a relaxing drive, hike or bicycle ride through the scenic countryside will be instantly immersed in the season’s breathtaking beauty. Here are some of the more popular places to view fall colors in California.
Alpine County: Aspen trees and cottonwood explode in bright yellow and golden colors in Hope Valley, Markleeville, Ebbett’s Pass and Monitor Pass.
Big Bear Lake: During autumn, the valley is a brilliant palette of reds, oranges, golds and browns as deciduous trees and bushes prepare for winter hibernation. The area derives its color primarily from oaks, but also includes aspen and some maples. Fishing as well as all water sports on the lake remain open through October as do the traditional activities of mountain biking, hiking and horseback riding. Five-star on the YELP scale, The Aspen Grove and it's golds and yellows is the only one of its kind in the San Bernardino National Forest.
Bishop: Travelers from Southern California in search of fall foliage will find Bishop the perfect destination. Encompassing America’s deepest valley and two of its highest mountain ranges, the Bishop area offers a remarkable variety of fall color. A fall color guide is available for the area and includes viewing directions for the following High Sierra foliage hot spots: Bishop Creek, Lower Rock Creek, Rock Creek, McGee Creek, Hilton Creek, Convict Lake, Mammoth Lakes, June Lake Loop and Conway Summit. Many of the canyons make a good base for campers and fishing in this area is abundant. The chamber also post fall color updates and information on its website.
Grover Hot Springs State Park: (Located south of Lake Tahoe, three miles west of Markleeville on Hot Springs Road) Aspen trees provide Grover Hot Springs with its lush, fall colors. The vibrant leaves and the park’s 102ºF mineral spring waters combine to make the area a special treat and a favorite spot for campers and hikers. In the fall Clark’s nutcrackers, white-breasted nuthatches, and band-tailed pigeons reside in the forest.
Mammoth Lakes: The transition from summer to winter turns Mammoth Lake’s alpine canyons and lake shores into a blaze of color. Aspen, willow and cottonwood unfold in brilliant hues of yellow, orange and red. Stands of old aspen add to the magnificent beauty of the area.
Yosemite National Park: Autumn’s arrival magnifies the beauty of one of California’s most cherished parks. The dogwood’s leaves put on a glorious show, including colors ranging from yellow to salmon, purple to Bordeaux red. Bright orange and vivid red aspen are on display, especially in the high country.
Ahjumawi Lava Springs State Park: Surrounded by a network of rivers and lakes, Ahjumawi Lava State Park is an ancient, wild landscape that turns a collage of colors in the fall. Canoeists, boaters and hikers will be overwhelmed by the park’s brilliantly colored foliage as they explore the area’s waterways, pools and lava flows. This predominantly untouched park is only accessable by boat. Boats may be launched at Rat Farm, located three miles north of the town of McArthur on a dirt road near the end of Main Street.
Plumas County: Visitors may savor Awesome Autumn foliage in Plumas County by taking a self-guided driving, biking or hiking tour along Highway 70. Several of the county’s most beautiful viewing locations are described in the following paragraphs. Fall color upadates are available on the Plumas County website's Leaf Peeper reports. Look for a free copy of the Plumas County Fall Color Guide, a map that outlines the best routes in the county, illustrates common species and explains why leaves change color. The guide is available at visitor information centers throughout Plumas County.
• Bucks Lake Road: A soothing drive along Bucks Lake Road showcases one of the largest groves of dogwood in the county and an incredible vista of the valley below. The road also features several pristine meadows covered with aspen and creek willow.
• Indian Creek/Indian Valley: One of California’s premiere pastoral drives begins where Highway 70 and Highway 89 intersect, heading towards Greenville and Lake Almanor. One side of the road is covered with masses of golden oak, chokecherry and dogwood. On the other side, the banks of a clear mountain stream are lined with amber willow and flaming red Indian rhubarb. Broad bands of oak and quaking aspen also descend the nearby ravines resembling giant, saffron waterfalls.
• Lake Almanor: The lake, with Mt. Lassen looming in the background, is always a scenic masterpiece. Autumn offers miles of reddened dogwood along Highway 36, and thickets of glowing birch and aspen along Juniper Lake Road and Warner Valley Road to Drakesbad. Stunning, crimson dogwood is also visible north of Chester in the Benner Creek area.
• Frenchman Lake: Fall colors illuminate the area’s unique geological formations, lava rock and stunning lake. Indian rhubarb, dogwood and chokeberry paint the area a vibrant red. Quaking aspen and oak cover the surrounding hillside in a blanket of yellow, making the area a treasure for those in search of fabulous fall color.
• Quincy/La Porte Road: Entering the town of Quincy, travelers will see a montage of oak, maple and poplar sprinkled among the homes, resting against an eastern Sierra background. The entire drive into La Porte winds through canyons crosses the Middle Fork of the Feather River and is a spectacular color excursion.
McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park: (Located northeast of Redding, six miles north of Hwy. 299, on Hwy. 89 near Burney) The falls at McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park provide a spectacular backdrop for the changing of the area’s oak leaves. While surrounded by a forest of multi-colored foliage, visitors may watch as 100 million gallons of water flow over the park’s 129-foot-high waterfall.
Castle Crags State Park: (Located six miles south of Dunsmuir along I-5) The towering, granite spires of Castle Crags are made more majestic by the colorful scenery of fall foliage. The park’s 28 miles of hiking trails provide the perfect venue for those desiring to explore the glory of autumn’s changing leaves.
Sonoma Valley: When in search of fall color, don’t miss California State Scenic Highway 12 through Sonoma Valley. Gold rolling hills and magenta-splashed vineyards are a palette of color. The tiny “Valley of the Moon” stretches over more than 17 miles of back roads, offering endless opportunities for scenic views.
Bothe-Napa Valley State Park: Located four miles north of St. Helena on Highway 29, ten miles of hiking trails guide visitors along steep hillsides for spectacular views of California’s trademark redwood groves. An official “watchable wildlife” site, trails pass by second-growth redwoods and through chaparral woodlands favored by California quail, western scrub-jays, woodpeckers, and coyotes. A horseback riding concession operates during summer and fall.
Grass Valley/Nevada City: This quaint area is known for some of the best fall color in the West. Giant sugar maple and liquidambar trees warm Victorian homes and historic districts with their brilliant hues. Premium fall foliage is scattered throughout both towns. Grass Valley offers a gorgeous hilltop vista. Nevada City’s colors are more centrally located and may be easily enjoyed on foot or bicycle. Two of the region’s most popular sites are Nevada Street in Nevada City and the enormous maple tree at the corner of Neal and School streets in Grass Valley.
Calaveras Big Trees State Park: (Located four miles northeast of Arnold on Highway 4) The dogwood trees are a continuous visual pleasure with their beautiful white flowers in the spring, burning red leaves in the fall and stark silhouette during the winter. This mixed conifer forest bisected by the Stanislaus River also has diverse but somewhat elusive wildlife. A special feature of the park are its two universally accessible trails.
Henry W. Coe State Park: Located about 40 minutes from Morgan Hill, this rugged wilderness park’s grassy woodlands and chaparral are broken by the canyons and ridges of the Diablo mountain range. During the fall, the north-facing slopes are a kaleidoscope of warm and cool colors, with large, yellow maple leaves, bright green bay leaves and live oak leaves with various yellow and red shades. The wilderness park is accessed by horse and foot trails only.
Note: As weather and elevation greatly affect fall color, it is suggested that visitors call ahead for additional information.
If my Subaru can't get me there, that's a good reason not to go!
Originally published Sierra Heritage 2010
In 2006, it was a great pleasure to meet Carroll Thomas as he celebrated the opening of his Big Pine art gallery. What’s the big deal you may be asking yourself? Well, Carroll had also just blown-out the candles (figuratively speaking) on his 96th birthday. The wide-eyed response to both amazing feats was, "No! Way!" He was the spriest 96-year-old I had ever met, "C'mon now. You can't be a day over 80!"
It was awe-inspiring to bask in the artistic glow of this true California treasure.
It’s appropriate that he should be living and working along side the oldest living things on Earth...the ancient bristlecone pines, which he captured on canvas as a sprightly 96-year-old. California is blessed to have so many of the oldest, tallest, only-est, largest things on the planet. Including, of course, Carroll. He is the oldest living American painter, still creating works of art, while personally operating and maintaining his own gallery.
As he approaches his 100th birthday, the time to celebrate and honor this California classic really is now. Carroll’s had a few health issues the past year. However, he still paints almost every day. Quite a feat since he started painting as a nimble nine-year-old.
The Rest of the Story: California's Centennial Artist
For the first time, Don Pedro Lake will host the Wild West Bass Pro/Am. Sponsored by the Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau the tournament takes place March 2-4, 2018 and is expected to attract more than 200 professional and amateur anglers. Located in the heart of Gold Country and the gateway to Yosemite National Park, The sixth-largest reservoir in California, the lake has an abundance of largemouth, smallmouth, and spotted bass making it a prime location for the Pro/Am.
Events are scheduled at Fleming Meadows Marina, 11500 Bonds Flat Road, La Grange, CA 95329. Daily events include Facebook Live Videos, Interviews, Weigh-Ins, and How-to Tips from Pros like Ken Mah and Vince Hurtado. Anglers are expecting to bag 20-25-pound bass making the daily 3 p.m. weigh-Ins a must-see event. Schedule, information and directions.
Outside the fishing zone, from Don Pedro Lake take Highway 132 to Highway 120 for the scenic drive to Yosemite National Park. With fewer crowds and waterfalls flowing, early spring is one of the best times to visit the park. The weather is brisk, making it perfect for day hiking. A less visited part of Yosemite, Hetch Hetchy Reservoir combines waterfalls with hikes. Across the dam and through the tunnel finds you alone above the water, surrounded by granite walls and silence.
Other non-angling activities include historic Jamestown, home to Railtown 1897 State Historic Park. Open daily until 3 p.m., park admission ranges from free to $5 dollars depending on age, Sip some wine in local tasting rooms at Inner Sanctum Cellars, open until 7 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and Gianelli Vineyards, open until 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday. There are many great dining options in historic Jamestown, including the 1859 National Hotel and Restaurant where gold is accepted as payment. Tucked away around a street corner is Stogies Gold Country Lounge featuring live entertainment, liquor, and fine cigars. Enjoy shopping at charming antique and eclectic shops that line the streets.
Tuolumne County, located 133 miles/200 km east of San Francisco, is a pristine, scenic expanse reaching into the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. For more information Visit Tuolumne.
This essay, written by Vern Gersh, appears in the 2018 Mono Lake Calendar.
“Never give up for that is the time and place that the tide will turn.” —Harriet Beecher Stowe
Forty years ago, in the Eastern Sierra, the tide was running. Like all tides it ran in one direction. Its flow must have seemed inexorable as the waters of life were sucked away.
Shakespeare referred to living in “the tide of times.” The tide that has been running strongest in my life is the stream of change. When I was born in 1955 there were half as many humans on the planet. Nothing human-made orbited the earth. There were fewer than 600 pizza parlors in the entire United States. The majority of Americans shared their phone line with a neighbor. You would dial that phone and were tethered to it with a cord. There was one Mexican restaurant in the city of half a million Americans where I was born.
Forty years ago, when the Mono Lake Committee was born in “the tide of times,” the world was divided by an Iron Curtain with half of Europe in the thrall of the Soviet Union. There was no space shuttle, no cell phones, and computers occupied full rooms. Google was not a verb, email and “text” were unknown concepts. Terms like ecology, environment, and climate change were learned in college, if at all. There were more than twice as many vertebrate animals in the wild. Even now we are still too ignorant to know how many species have been driven to extinction in those forty years.
In the flow of the tide, there are organisms. A benthos hangs on, buried or clinging to whatever it can. A plankton can swim within the tide but, ultimately it must go along with the flow. And then there are the nektons.
Nektons can swim against the tide. They have the strength, vigor, and determination to overcome the phenomena brought about by titanic forces beyond their control.
People have changed the face of an entire planet. Our strength, vigor, determination, and intelligence have harnessed titanic forces. The tide we have set in motion has too often been careless of the consequences.
The political and societal forces in my lifetime have ebbed and flowed. Our commitment to the world we leave to future generations has washed to and fro but worldwide the tide seems to be running out.
Even here, in the United States of America, political forces seem to have turned. A nation, whose scientific prowess has led the world, seems hesitant to lead.
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow said, “The lowest ebb is the turning of the tide.”
Like the benthos we can cling, hunker down, and hope for better days. Like the plankton, we can paddle within the current. Forty years ago, a dedicated few on the shore of Mono Lake formed a committee and stemmed a tide at that place and time.
The great Nordic king Canute had his throne placed on the shore of the ocean. Resting on his throne, in a monarch’s voice he commanded the tide to turn. It did not.
Forty years ago a few nektons changed things. They did what Canute could not. If we join together no power or earthly king can stop us.
Vern Gersh is a former guide and naturalist, now retired. A lover of birds and plants, Vern is leaving his heart in the Mono Basin for the next adventure, retirement on the Colorado Plateau.
Long live Mono Lake! Official California Watchable Wildlife viewing site.
4 Star Star Star Star - You don't have to climb to #loveWhitneyHostel
So remiss on my part for not penning this review sooner. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel was the perfect overnight location on my short visit to Lone Pine. I arrived later than expected and found the lobby open and staff waiting to check me in. A long day in Bishop, I happily climbed the stairs to my second-story private room and queen bed. Clean, quiet, TV, microwave and in-room coffee maker. I was a happy camper; minus the camping, of course. I was in Lone Pine for the annual Owens Lake Bird Festival. The hostel was conveniently located just a few blocks from the festival headquarters. Up just after dawn, it made for an easy morning commute.
For those on a budget, the dorm-style rooms (male and female) are the best deal and all rooms have private baths. Views of Mt. Whitney come at no extra charge. The hostel is downtown Lone Pine and an easy walk to local stores and restaurants.
I didn't have a chance to really check out all the hostel has to offer as I was up and gone so early - I would likely have give then that fifth star had I been there longer. Thank you to owners Doug and Earlene Thompson!
Next time a longer visit and that extra star!
If my Subaru can't get me there,
that's a good reason not to go!
Two hours from Yosemite Valley, Lee Vining provides seasonal alternatives for Yosemite lodging
I love, love, love El Mono Motel & Latte Da Coffee Cafe in Lee Vining, California. Last year after meeting the owner, Kelly, I was determined to stay at this quintessential California motel. On a recent visit, I did just that!
The cafe is fabulous; cheerful, welcoming, and great place to hang out. Clearly, the garden courtyard, front porch with willow chairs and views of the Eastern Sierra sky keep guests coming back and happy! Wish they'd spend less time online and more time taking in the ambiance. Some of the best coffee on the "East Side". Made with love, homemade baked goods ATDF!
The motel is another on of those places I adore. If you want the Ritz, don't stay here. For me, this is as good as it gets and rates five stars when it comes to customer service, prices, and location. The garden is enough of a reason to stay. Just ask all the birds. I opted for a room with shared bath. The rates are great. The room with queen bed and sink was just perfect and included that spectacular garden view. Yes, there is some Highway 395 noise, but I was content. This place is hugely popular with Europeans, especially Germans and most people heading to or from Yosemite and hikes in nearby high country wilderness.
The Mono Lake Committee bookstore and visitor center is literally across the street. The right turn up Highway 120/Tioga Pass to Yosemite (closed in the winter) is a mile south on 395. El Mono -- close to all of the splendor and great outdoors that is the Eastern Sierra -- is just miles away from the Mono Lake Tufa State Natural Reserve and the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area.
When you stop in, give Kelly my best!
