Are You That Woman

Wildflowers adorn California landscapes

Springtime can be missed in a blink; however those with open eyes won’t miss the orchestra of colors that carpet California hillsides, meadows and landscapes with wildflowers.  With thousands of varieties and numerous habitats, climates and terrain, the blooms are as varied and unique as California itself.

With most of the state experiencing an unusually wet winter, these “uncultivated  flowering plants” should be bountiful in coming months. Early spring (February–April) is the opportune time to view desert blooms. Red Rock Canyon State Park is a juxtaposition of rock formations with vivid blossoms amidst beaver tail cactus and white blooming Joshua trees and yuccas. Early spring trekkers will be treated  to desert candles, lilies and asters, wooly sunflowers and Indian paintbrush. The Coachella Valley Nature Preserve, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and Death Valley National Park also showcase their share of seasonal color and are already flourishing.

To be immersed in true California color, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve near Lancaster in Los Angeles County consists of seven miles of trails through 1,745 acres of golden petals.

Wildflowers generally peak March through early June, however an abundant snow pack will extend the Sierra Nevada wildflower season into the summer months. For late spring through summer viewing, head to higher elevations. Fish Slough and Lake Sabrina in Bishop are popular viewing areas in the Eastern Sierra.

When you think of wildflower viewing, do you ever imagine lying on your belly to see those colorful blooms? At Baldwin Lake Ecological Reserve adjacent to Big Bear Lake come prepared to get horizontal. Often called belly plants, this unique variety of wildflowers are so small you may need to put your nose to the ground to see them.

San Mateo’s Edgewood County Park and Natural Preserve in the San Francisco Bay Area flourishes with blue larkspurs and lupines, pink shooting stars, white fairy lanterns and red paintbrush. Marin’s Chimney Rock at Point Reyes National Seashore showcases yellow goldfields, blue irises, poppies and Point Reyes chocolate lilies. Other popular locations in the Bay Area include the Mount Burdell Open Space Preserve near Novato and Napa’s Missimer Snell Valley Wildflower Preserve, where onlookers can appreciate the vibrant hues from the road.

North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve in Butte County transforms into an endless sea of color and is one of the region’s premier viewing areas. The paths that lead you there (Highway 70, Cherokee Road), are equally spectacular. Many are con­vinced that the biggest wild­flower show in Butte Coun­ty is found north of Table Moun­tain at Chico’s Bid­well Park. 

Also in Butte County, Oroville’s North Ther­mal­i­to Fore­bay is easily reached. The paved path wrap­ping around Rat­tlesnake Hill is also wheel­chair acces­si­ble allow­ing vis­i­tors to enjoy spring wild­flow­ers with ease. This 1.2-mile loop may be short but it includes one of the most photogenic spots in Butte Coun­ty — the Sut­ter Buttes ris­ing behind the North Forebay’s footbridge. What do you do when it starts to heat up in the Sacra­men­to Val­ley but you still want more wild­flow­ers? Head to the foothill region! Par­adise Lake keeps the bloom going into May and June with for­est favorites like lupine, bleed­ing heart, and flow­er­ing dog­wood trees. Pack a picnic and bring chairs to enjoy a respite at lake's edge.

Discover greater wildflower adventures at California State Parks and Jepson Prairie Preserve in Solano County.

If my Subaru can't get me there, 
that's a good reason not to go!

Discovering Las Plumas

In 1820, Captain Louis Arguello explored portions of a stream in northeastern California. Impressed by the large number of bright-feathered waterfowl, he named the stream El Rio de Las Plumas, “River of the Feathers.”  From this the names Plumas County and Feather River were born. Nearly 200 years ago, early visitors discovered the diversity of Plumas County’s wildlife riches. Hunting and fishing, of course, but also the attraction of wildlife viewing. Today, wildlife and nature viewing is a popular pastime throughout the steep ridges and mountain valleys of Plumas County— birds, mammals, reptiles and insects are abundant. 

After a brief winter nap, spring awakens the wilds and wonders of Plumas County. In their four-season wet or dry years, Plumas County always delivers on the promise to OMG! you at every turn. Scenic back roads, world-class golf, amazing wildflowers, open space with views for days, outdoor recreation for all ages and desires – hike, bike, fish, boat, camp – or just enjoy hushed moments under blue or star-studded skies.  A drier than normal winter may mean fewer wildflowers in spring and summer.  Mule’s ear, larkspur, yellow meadow buttercups, lupine, California poppies and the rare California pitcher plant  in Butterfly Valley are just a few of the dazzling flora to be discovered.  The best and busiest season is May through July.

More than 85 percent of the Plumas National Forest’s 1.1 million acres are within Plumas County.  However, in the past six years essentially two thirds of the forest was affected by wildfires which has also impacted all the natural wonders.  Claiming more than 100 lakes and 1,000 miles of rivers and streams, open space defines Plumas County. The Feather River Land Trust has preserved more than 100,000 acres of private lands. The Maddalena Ranch and Heart K Ranch are open year-round for birding and hiking.  Plumas County is Mecca for birdwatchers and nature lovers of all ages. The Plumas Audubon Society offers guided bird walks. Learn about the birds of Lake Almanor in the mountain meadows of Plumas County. Two official California Watchable Wildlife viewing sites are found in Plumas County – Antelope Lake/Indian Creek and Lake Davis. Camping, hiking, biking, fishing and boating are all part of the wildlife and nature tourism experience. Bring your binoculars, camera, and Plumas County Birding Guide along for the ride.

Locavores eat, shop, and learn local
After winter passes, the season of good things from the Earth awakens. Fresh is good and so very good for you.  Could there be a better triple threat for visitors and residents than shop local, eat healthy, and support Plumas County farmers and cottage industries?  Back in the Gold Rush Era, there was a long tradition of market gardening and local retail that evolved in response to the needs of miners and pioneers. That rich heritage is alive and growing in Plumas County. 

Seasonal farmers markets provide an array of produce, meats, arts and crafts and other local treasures for the heart, soul, and stomach.   The Quincy Certified Farmers Market, Sundays late June through mid-September, is bountiful regional goods, artisans, massages, baked goods and music.  Romano’s Farmers Market, Fridays May (last Friday) – mid-September, is California’s only on-the-farm farmers market.  A true destination, fresh fish, local meat, lamb, and eggs, wine tasting, and free guest chef cooking demos. Yes, good vibrations along with local produce, baked goods, and crafts are happening at the Chester Themed Farmers Market at Chester Park at 190 Willow Street. Check online for dates and times.

At Genessee Valley Ranch, the herd is 100% purebred Black Wagyu beef. These animals are pasture-raised solely on a diet of diversified grasses. Each field is rotated with a variety of native grasses to ensure that both the land and the cattle benefit from a sustainable, environmentally sensitive management program. You can savor a wide variety of farm-fresh offerings including ranch beef at the Genessee Store. Just a few miles up the road, Young’s Market in Taylorsville is a historic landmark selling artisan cheeses and cured meats, great beer and wines, and specialty groceries.

Riley’s Jerky in Greenville is family-owned and operated since 1981. Stop by Monday – Saturday or order online. Enjoy jerky and craft beers on the patio.

Throughout Plumas County, fun fare and libations make this road-trip a must! At the crossroads of highways 70 and 89, The Brewing Lair is craft brew in a wooded wonderland.  Picnics, disc golf, live music, Ricochet Café food truck, and creative ales – it’s family- and dog-friendly, and just ridiculously fun.  In Blairsden, MoFo (mobile food) fanciers will diverge from driving for Bread & Butter food truck where road food has risen to new heights.

Quintopia Brewery is unique and was Quincy’s first brewery in more than a century. The brewer’s specialty is making easy drinking session beers. They feature a diverse menu with an international flare. Don’t miss the Masala chicken loaded fries and cold udon noodle bowl.

New to Chester, Timber Lodge Brewing masterfully crafts ales, lagers, IPAs and porters. For something bolder, the Monkey Face brand of gin, vodka, rye, bourbon and spiced rum will warm the soul.

Bike your cares away in Plumas County!
Mountain biking is big business. In Plumas County, it’s really big and fun. So much so, that they have amazing biking events. There are three “century” rides throughout the county – Mile High, Tour de Manure, Lost & Found Gravel Festival – with picturesque mountain and lake views accessible to all skill levels. Trails beginning at the base of Indian Valley take advanced riders to mountain ridges overlooking the valley. A free Plumas Mountain Biking Trail Guide, available online, details rides in Eastern and Central Plumas County and the Lake Almanor Basin.  If mountain biking isn’t your obsession, downshift and bike Plumas County backcountry roads – they’re traffic- and stress-free.

Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship has been instrumental in expanding trails throughout Plumas and Sierra counties. The Quincy-based nonprofit has developed the Mills Peak Trail in Graeagle, the South Park trail system in Quincy and is currently in the midst of phase two of the Mount Hough project, which will add 38 miles of new multi-use trails on Hough by next year. Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship's legacy project, Connected Communities, aims to revitalize Lost Sierra mountain towns through the creation of a 564-mile multi-use singletrack trail that would connect 15 towns, including Truckee and Reno.

Mountain biking is not allowed in wilderness areas or on the Pacific Crest Trail.

For more information, visit:  plumascounty.org. 
Many businesses have seasonal hours of operation. Check online or call ahead. 

Originally published:

Delta Time, Delta Ways

Yes, the Delta. Not the Mississippi Delta, but the California Delta! Some of you know of where I speak. Others have no idea that this magical landscape – thousands of watery miles, dozens of islands, wildlife expeditions galore, recreational wonderland – is out there waiting for you!

For many years, good fortune allowed me to explore the California Delta. My first encounter, sometime in the late ‘70s, left this East Coast native in complete awe. No other experience as a point of reference! Unfamiliar with the region, I had no hint where we were as we headed to Tower Park Marina. I just remember the many drawbridges, the topography, tiny river towns, and winding levee roads that brought us to our final destination: a sunset Delta cruise. I fell in love with the Delta time and ways.

For more than 50 years, the Delta love affair has grown stronger. By some standards, I am a layperson. As much as I have seen, it’s an immense area of specialty and a mere drop in the Delta bucket. Each time I venture out, I come away with something new, something more, and something extraordinary. And that’s the thrill of this Delta wonderland. Those who have made this a lifetime pursuit will say the same.

A few billowy clouds, blue sky, a small breeze, and the Delta stretched out before you. This is not about winning the race, but enjoying life at a slow and peaceful pace.  And enjoying life the way it used to be; the Delta ways are a trip back in time. Keep your eyes open for two local ferries – the Real McCoy and J-Mack – transporting trucks and cars from island to island.

A maze of winding roads, turning and tilting drawbridges, sloughs named Potato, Snodgrass, Georgiana, and Steamboat, and more than 1,000 miles of waterways, the California Delta is an astonishing haven. Just miles from Sacramento and the Bay Area, urban cares are forgotten along scenic highways and peaceful country lanes lined with orchards, vineyards, hamlets, and marinas. Always special, autumn colors and harvests make this drive truly magical.

The wildlife is bountiful. Canada geese, coots, cormorants, great and lesser egrets, great blue herons, night herons, raccoons, kestrel, red-tail hawks, ducks, and sandhill cranes. With binoculars and a camera close at hand, watch land mammals come and go from the shores. The West Coast’s largest estuary, it’s world-renowned for its bass population (small and largemouth and striped) and home to salmon, sturgeon, and catfish.

Reclaimed historic buildings feature wine and olive oil tastings. Sheltered by giant oaks, Consumnes River Farm Winery in Thornton may require your GPS. At Grand Island Vineyard in Walnut Grove, every bottle is 100% estate-grown. Journey to the Hemly Cider Hangar near Courtland featuring estate-grown or locally sourced fruit ciders.

Legendary Delta dives have cult followings. For 90 years at Foster’s Bighorn, locals and tourists have dined under the watchful gaze of hundreds of wild game trophies. Equally renowned, Al the Wop’s garlic steak sandwich with peanut butter is available by special request. Steamboat Landing Bar & Grill has been reborn with a fantastic Chinese menu and full bar.  Outdoor dining is a big plus!  Numerous backwater havens – Korth’s Pirate Lair, Rusty Porthole, Viera’s Resort – are accessible by boat or car. Reserve in advance for Sunday brunch at the Grand Island Mansion, northern California’s largest private estate.

Vestiges of notable Chinese and Japanese American communities remain.   A once bustling Chinatown, Locke is a designated National Historic Landmark District.  Built in 1927, the Walnut Grove Buddhist Church still serves the community.  Originally a Chinese gambling hall, brothel, and opium den, Mei Wah Tap Room in Isleton features 24 curated craft brews (many local), as well as kombucha, cider, seltzer and nitro coffee. 

There is a delicate balance necessary to protect the California Delta. Natural and manmade invaders threaten the health of the Delta. Invasive water hyacinths, quagga mussels, mitten crabs, and a kelp-like forest of Egeria densa (a popular aquarium plant) grow thick. Many intruders were brought innocently to this delicate ecosystem as hitchhikers aboard freighters and boats that ply this labyrinth of rivers. Some, deliberately, by human hands.  Either way, we must work to protect this Delta gift, which is (literally) the lifeblood of water for most of California

Arriving by land or water, California Delta websites and maps help you chart your course. Proceed with caution along narrow levee roads. Always call ahead to confirm days and hours of operation. Remember, you’re on Delta time.  For more information, visit www.californiadelta.org.

 

Originally featured

If my Subaru can't get me there, I won't go.

International Sportsmen’s Expo, Sacramento 2024: Great outdoor adventures for everyone

Each year in early December, the television commercial would appear. A trumpeting elk buck and images of people rushing off to that annual rite of passage known as the International Sportsmen’s Expo, Sacramento. With a very heavy lean towards fishing and hunting pursuits, informed regulars know it as the “hook and bullet” show. Clearly popular, the Cal Expo parking lots are packed each of four days. I have a passion for California and outdoor recreation, but had resisted joining the throngs. I don’t hunt. And while I have enjoyed a few fly-fishing excursions including California’s Lower Owens River and Montana’s Big Horn River, I am hardly the avid angler. In 2013, I was an ISE virgin. My curiosity got the best of me and decided to take the plunge. Years later, no longer a novice, 2024 extravaganza will offer new exploits.

The energy at the show is palpable. Vast exhibit halls and numerous outdoor displays house hundreds of vendors, seminars and demonstrations. Come well-rested, wear comfortable shoes and bring a schwag backpack and your outdoor adventure spirit. I am not squeamish, but am aware there’s plenty of taxidermy and maneuver around some of those exhibitors. My love for the outdoors is more than sated by the wealth of hiking, biking, kayaking, off-roading, camping, boating and (yes) even cooking and food suppliers. Remember, the show is H-U-G-E! Despite the Expo map and exhibitor listings, it can be challenging locating certain vendors or displays. Wandering the aisles and buildings is half the fun, but a plan of attack is highly recommended.

Representatives from some of my favorite California destinations attend the ISE Sacramento. A devotee of the Eastern Sierra, I customarily make a beeline to Mono County Tourism and look forward to time with Visit Bishop. At the California Delta Chambers and Visitors Bureau booth, I’m reminded that many extraordinary adventures are in my own backyard. These folks know all the hidden gems. Lots of people vacation in the same place and never venture anywhere else. The ISE provides new perspectives for birding, photography and wilderness outings. Even for this seasoned traveler, there’s plenty to learn and vendors are eager to answer all questions.

I look forward to connecting with CalOHA (California Outdoor Hospitality Association) who will be back with their just-published free Camp-California guide. CalOHA will teach you to “camp like a pro”- with pets, outdoors like a pro, cook like and campfire like a pro, and learn campground etiquette.   

Anyone who wants to go outdoors—first-timer to expert—should attend. For newcomers, the Expo is the perfect trailhead to adventure. Many destinations sportfishing and hunting, but most lodges and resorts offer other activities from boating and watersports, to hiking and other fun things for couples or the entire family. Visitors can research and book trips—in California, around the West, or to Mexico, Canada, Alaska and Africa.

What can you expect to see and do? Half of the several-hundred exhibiting exhibitors spotlight destinations. The other half sells new outdoor gear. This is also the largest sportfishing-boat show in Northern California. There are four sit-down areas:  Adventure (hunting) and Fishing theaters, a giant bass-filled Demo Tank, and a Sporting-Dog Arena—all with free hourly seminars. Three retailers have set up large stores:  Fisherman’s Warehouse, Fly Fishing Specialties, and Turner’s Outdoorsman. California Department of Fish & Wildlife has indoor and outdoor displays, where folks can talk face-to-face about anything and everything outdoors in the state. And kids can climb a rock wall, catch and release a trout, tie a fly, try archery, learn shooting safety, race in a Pinewood Derby, build robots, and play a variety of games!

Yes, it's true. At the International Sportsmen’s Exposition, I’ll run out of time before I run out of fun. My favorite Costa sunglasses are an ISE regular. I’ll drool over dozens of kayaks and recreational vehicles. I’ll be tempted to plan another Alaska or maybe a houseboat vacation. The possibilities are endless. 

Check the schedules, arrive early, and stay all day! For more information:  www.sportsexpos.com/attend/sacramento

Originally published in Mountain Democrat.

Autumn in Lake County

Harvest days are cooler and shorter. Internal clocks are winding down making this the perfect time to retreat.  Autumn leaf peepers should head north to Lake County for a restful and multihued ride. Avoid many miles of Interstate 5 by dialing-in your GPS to tranquil country roads. Meander up Highway 16 to Esparto, through Capay Valley and Cache Creek Canyon – stunning any time of year. Turn left on Highway 20 and follow winding roads to Lake County.

What to do? What to do?
Black, golden and red oaks, dogwoods, cottonwoods, and red maples deliver a colorful display through mid-November. From locals in the know – Cobb Mountain packs a wallop during leaf-peeper season. Vineyards and orchards put on a beautiful show this time of year. The Big Valley of Kelseyville is also recommended. Fall colors are weather dependent, so don’t be disappointed if foliage deities don't provide. Lake County has plenty of attractions to fill your days.

Rodman Slough County Park offers kayaking and wildlife and nature enthusiasts a surreal adventure. Sensitive wetland areas and oak woodlands shelter a variety of wildlife including great blue heron, great egrets and double-crested cormorants, osprey and grebes. Saturday self-guided walks are available at nearby Rodman Preserve from 9am to noon.

For the strong of heart, hiking Mount Konocti County Park is a must. Opened in 2011, it is Lake County’s largest park. A landscape of mostly dense chaparral and beautiful Canyon Live Oak trees, this dormant ancient volcano provides stunning views from an elevation of 4,300 feet. 

Pillow Talk!
Camping isn’t for everyone, but Clear Lake State Park might convert you. RV or tent camping is great for groups and includes ADA accessible facilities including Kelsey Creek Trail’s 1,500-foot boardwalk. Clear Lake fosters stress-reducing and family-friendly recreational opportunities. Hiking, boating, biking, fishing, bird-watching, or relaxing in the shade. Can’t disconnect? There’s Wi-Fi access.

In Upper Lake, the historic Tallman Hotel is beautifully restored and fabulously LEED green. Lodging includes an expanded continental breakfast featuring fresh fruits and homemade granola, jams, and scones. Enjoy fantastic fare, libations, and live blues at Blue Wing Saloon. The Tallman’s state-of-the-art heating systems are delivered from geothermal sources. Learn more about this natural process at The Geysers in Middletown, the largest geothermal power plant in the world.

For something completely different, Featherbed Railroad Bed & Breakfast Resort’s nine caboose guest rooms contain full baths and comfortable featherbeds. Relax and enjoy great outdoor adventures.

Repast!
Local farms and seasonal farm stands and farmers markets provide fresh fruits and vegetables, farm eggs, goat cheese, and wine! The vineyards are especially pretty during the fall. Sustainably-farmed and 100% organic, Shannon Ridge Mountain Estate Vineyards grow at higher elevations in Clear Lake Oaks. Their wines are available at The Mercantile in Kelseyville.  

Restaurants that focus on fresh fare are available countywide. Family-owned and operated, comfort foods, beautiful views, color-draped landscapes, and fresh air all score high on the escape scale. Here are a few favorites: Angelina’s Bakery & Espresso, Blue Wing Saloon Restaurant, Park Place, Saw Shop Gallery Bistro, and Studebakers Café & Deli.

Fun Facts
Clear Lake is the largest natural freshwater lake in California, with 63 square miles of surface area, and more than 100 miles of shoreline. Estimated at 2.5 million years old, it is thought to be the oldest lake in North America — and quite possibly the world. Lake County has the cleanest air in California as certified by the State’s Air Resources Board.

For more information, visit:  www.LakeCounty.com

Fair Oaks Chicken Festival Celebrates Local Clucks

September 17, 2022, 12-6 p.m.

11549 Fair Oaks Blvd., Fair Oaks, CA 95628
Free, forpd.org

Join the Fair Oaks Recreation & Park District for the Annual Fair Oaks Chicken Festival. This year’s event will span over the course of the day with pop-up events in the Village of Fair Oaks & at the Fair Oaks / Orangevale Grange. The main festival will take place at Fair Oaks Park.

• Chicken Stock (live music)
• Rocky’s Roost (kids' park)
• Feed Court (food trucks) presented by SactoMoFo
• Watering Hole (beer & wine sales) presented by Fair Oaks Rotary Foundation
• Craft and Community Vendor Booths
• Cornhole Tournament presented by Fair Oaks Chamber of Commerce & Orangevale Cornhole CCA
• Cluck n' Crow Contest presented by Kiwanis Club Orangevale - Fair Oaks
• GREAT Chicken Decorating Contest
• Community Spirit, and much more!

Here's the original story from the very first Chicken Festival!

By: Barbara Steinberg

Fair Oaks, CA--Why DID the chickens cross the road? Evidently to get out of the way of the Fair Oaks Chicken Festival. Yes, Fair Oaks Village! Where chickens and roosters, like queens and kings, are treated as honored dignitaries! These feathery fowl were reason to rejoice at this first-time event which paid homage to our chicken brethren. Colonel Sanders would be proud.

For decades this feral poultry has wandered the main streets and back roads of historic and tranquil downtown Fair Oaks. Annoying to some residents beware of poultry poop but beloved by most. I remember my own first encounter at the Slocum House, dining in elegance as a rooster and his harem clucked and strutted their way across the patio. A string of chicks in tow.

On a poultry-perfect September day locals came out to dance, dine, and drink in the center of town. The poultry clucked as the vendors hocked everything chicken from hand-crafted quilts and stained glass to chicken paintings and tiles. And no one went hungry: The chickens scratched while the human force chowed-down on hot ‘dawgs', ice cream, BBQ beef brisket, and, yes, irreverently, chicken. For anyone willing to get-up with the chickens, the festival breakfast was something to crow about: Scrambled eggs (ouch!), biscuits and gravy, ham, pancakes, and coffee, OJ or milk…all for the paltry price of $5. Needless to say, it was well-worth the wait.

There seemed to be something for everyone, with no complaints from the chickens. A flock of kid activities were organized in Village Park. Face painting, gold panning, games, bug-petting zoo, and potting plants kept the young chicks smiling. Many, along with their parents, could be seen kicking up dirt at the Festival Stage serenaded by local bands including ‘fave' Mumbo Gumbo and their raucous "Everybody Loves Barbeque." Cooking demonstrations and wine pairings were held at Veteran's Memorial Amphitheater while a beer garden of microbrews could be found on the other side of town.

The festival also included a barbeque competition hosted by the local Oak Hardware and the Big Green Egg which claims to be the "world's best smoker & grill." The ceramic Big Green Egg is a versatile and effective outdoor cooker designed for smoking, grilling, roasting, baking and barbequing all kinds of foods. Ten competitors were given instructions on how to fire-up and control this mother of all eggs. There were special sauces and dry rub; chicken, fish, and kabobs; and special techniques which included cans of beer and cast-iron skillets. "Judging is based on appearance, taste, and tenderness," said Darry Smith, one of the judges and a seasoned professional in the world of BBQ competitions. Truthfully for hours I was thinking Dr. Seuss. Then, brushing the feathers from my eyes, "Oh, I get it…big egg!"

I had to dash off before the final judging. Based on the determined looks, perspiration, and smoke in the air each chef was resolute to be rulin' the BBQ-roost by day's end. With any luck, this event may someday answer the unanswerable of which came first…the chicken or the (Big Green) egg?

The wonderfulness of this event is its old-time appeal. The Fair Oaks Village, thankfully, maintains its small town charm while surrounded by fast-moving freeways and the ever-changing modern world. For more information the festival visit FairOaksChickenFestival.com or other happenings in the Village fairoakschamber.com.

Events are not guaranteed. It is your responsibility to confirm before going.

Tin Box Memories

Memories from my Tin Box of Poetry & Prose. I continue to find the stories scribbled ink on paper. These will be with me always.

An adventure in every way. Traveling to new places, meeting new people, taking part in a piece of Americana - a cattle drive. What else? 

The drive to Bridgeport was fantastic. I had never been beyond Lake Tahoe. Venturing into Nevada and driving through open valleys lined with tumbleweed, surrounded by omnipotent Sierra mountains capped with snow and shrouded by dark clouds. The aspens were a shade of yellow that only unseen powers could create. After passing Lake Tahoe, we dropped down into the Carson Valley - flat and wide-open. The sun was shining on a few chosen spaces. Farther along was Topaz Lake. Just beyond, we crossed back into California. The land was mostly scrub and brush with jagged hills on either side. A small stream, a lovely cascade of water and rocks, shadowed the road. The sky was still cloudy with breaks of sunlight.

The people on the cattle drive have been amazing and made me feel a part of this longstanding gathering. CJ Hadley, a British writer living in Washoe Valley, dressed me out in her suede chaps and her Australian outback coat. Terry Sullivan, a classic cowboy, tied his flowery neckerchief around my neck. With CJ's hat resting on my head, I was transformed into the complete cowgirl. The ultimate show of generosity was CJ letting me ride her horse, Gibson. And so, on our second day on the trail, I rode into Sweetwater Ranch with an extraordinary family of cowboys: Terry Sullivan, David Roundtree, Glenn Allaback, John Ascuaga, and Richard Houle, Chef gone cowboy for a day. We rode on through a majestic valley ringed on all sides by the Sierra Nevada with 900 head of cattle keeping pace.

The next day started with another of Richard's heartfelt meals - steak and eggs, home fries, toast, coffee, and a smile. The world was icy; nighttime temperatures had dipped to a chilly 15 degrees. Bridled and saddled, the horses' tails, manes, whiskers, and eyelashes were tipped in a frosty white. One restless pony pranced feverishly in the corral. Certainly she would not be left out of the day's journey. And she wasn't.

 

 

 

 

 

Wild Rivers Coast: There’s a reason why

The sun was barely breaking through when fog began rolling in across the mouth of the Smith River. Where river and ocean unite – feels holy. Harbor seals, almost ghostly, gaze out across the shallow. A community of cormorants Zen(ly) attempt drying their wings. Brown pelicans and American oystercatchers share the spit. A lone angler casts again and again. He confides it’s been rumored salmon are running better on the Rogue and Klamath rivers. Still, he’s content. I watch with quiet respect and retreat once my camera is satiated.

Some 30 miles away, we walk a considerable sandspit separating the Klamath River from the Pacific Ocean. One more peaceful world, the lone inhabitants strolling or sitting quietly, we reverently contemplate this sacred space. The tide is returning and waves crash to the shore. A swift undertow – the cold water just licks my naked feet as I scramble away.  The Klamath has journeyed far – 263 miles from Southern Oregon – to wed itself to the churning ocean.

 

Morro Bay: Nature Sublime

Inhale. Watch the sun set behind Morro Rock, bark at sea lions, call to a night heron, and walk in silence beside a forest of pygmy oaks.  At every turn, open spaces and environmentally sensitive biomes of extraordinary splendor await.  Miles and miles of nature preserves, state parks, state beaches, and magical places with names like The Elfin Forest elevate Morro Bay’s allure.  From a waterfront perch at the Inn at Morro Bay, only one question emerges, “What next?” Mother Nature worked overtime to create this canvas.  It deserves all your attention.

Turn right out of the Inn’s parking lot. Head for Montaña de Oro State Park toward shoreline and estuary views.  In just a few miles, the road narrows; the “real” world drops away.  Some days are sunny.  Today, fog drapes the hillsides but without diminishing the heightened anticipation to reach Sandspit Beach – a four-mile “ecologically diverse” sand dune area separating Morro Bay from the Pacific Ocean.

One vehicle in the parking lot alludes to a park ranger, nowhere to be seen.  Out of your own four-wheeler, the world is quiet. You zigzag along with the boardwalk, along sensitive dunes dotted with sand verbena and lupine.  A slight rise in the dune and –  suddenly – stillness to crashing waves! A view that thrills you to the bone.

Breathe. One seriously long, deep breath of the fog, the mist, the ocean air.

See. Open your eyes, wide! Really, really wide to an abundance of sand, shore birds, ocean debris, wildflowers, pounding surf. Incredibly, you are the sole inhabitant on this expanse of beach inside Montaña de Oro State Park.  Imagine the coastal Chumash who once called this home.

Step. Follow the footprints – some four-footed – the comings and goings of previous visitors. The tide rushes up and laps at your feet, washing away remnants of your passing and those before you.

Gaze. Scan for signs of life. A troop of curlews hurries in and out of the surf chasing an elusive breakfast.  A band of brown pelicans rises and falls with the light as if on some unseen carnival ride.  Bashful snowy plovers sneak – left, right, left right – over dunes to  protected nesting ground.  A gang of turkey vultures nibble on the carcass of a dolphin, its mouth agape in a petrified smile.  Heartbreaking, still, it is the nature of things and now part of this memory.

Sun and fog debate which will prevail over today’s weather. Fog appears to be winning.  Though a distance away, you linger in hopes that Morro Rock will reappear through the mist. Not to be on this adventure. After a mile on the spit, it’s time to turn back.

A ghostly surfer slips the top of a wave, a solitary figure, as you depart. Exhale.

Falling for Yosemite Autumn is Awesome

Even during these trying Covid times, for most travelers, Labor Day signaled the unofficial end of summer. Vacations are over. Kids are back in school. It's the last bona fide summer holiday weekend and, from this point forward it's a slow, steady slide into the New Year.

Fall Equinox occurs around September 23rd each year. The sun crosses the celestial equator, from north to south, heralding the end of summer marking the official start of autumn. Days are getting shorter; shadows are longer; nights are cooler, and you can feel the change in the air. It's inspirational! It's also one of the best and most inspired times of year to visit Yosemite National Park!

When it comes to visiting Yosemite, fewer travelers visit in this off-season. Annually, millions of people throng to see the splendor of the granite cliffs, cascading falls, giant sequoias, and the grandeur made famous by the likes of John Muir and Ansel Adams. During late spring and throughout the summer months, Yosemite is teeming with guests from around the world. There's more traffic and making lodging reservations, especially within the park, can be a challenge. Post-summer, the visitor tide ebbs, and the park begins an unhurried progression into a seasonal hibernation. Fewer cars on the roads in, out, and around the park, are definitely a big plus. The availability of lodging – at all levels – is much more attainable.

Autumn weather remains comfy with daytime temps warm enough for shorts and river sandals; nights can be chilly but cozy – even more so as the fall season evolves. Changes in temperatures and weather should be considered when packing. Better to err on the conservative side – the layered approach is usually best – and remember, rain and early snows are always a possibility; come prepared.

Yosemite Valley is famous for its colorful dogwoods – shades of pink and red; and California live oaks turn a golden amber color mid-October to November. Throughout the season aspens adorn themselves with seasonal hues. The onset of autumn colors can't be timed. Lengthening nights and colder temperatures signal the change. So in other words, later in the season is better but is no guarantee. In the solitude and calm of the autumn season, you can be assured that Yosemite will not disappoint even the most ardent leaf peeper. Look for the landmark blazing red sugar maple near Yosemite Chapel. Take Tioga Road along the Merced River for some of the best fall foliage photo-ops.

Visitors should keep an eye out for mule deer and coyotes, which are now seen frequently as they move from the higher elevations of the Sierra Nevada down into Yosemite Valley. Bears should always be a concern – though not as frequently sighted. Do not leave any food or sunscreen, toothpaste, shampoo, lotion, gum, candy, and any other items that have a scent in your car. If camping, be certain to take precautions and use food storage lockers.

From Sacramento and foothill locations, you have easy access to one of California's most scenic byways, Hwy. 49. There's no better way to begin this fall foliage sojourn. As fall flourishes, sightings of color along Hwy. 49 are clearly an added attraction to this multi-hued escape.  Also known as the Golden Chain Heritage Corridor, Hwy. 49 passes through charming and historic towns. Allow time to enjoy the sights and an occasional stop at towns along the way. Amador City, Sutter Creek, Angels Camp, Sonora, and others offer outstanding opportunities for shopping, sightseeing, and maybe a fresh-baked loaf of bread or a glass of wine. California's past lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems. If you choose to bypass downtown Sonora's two-lane traffic, a detour on Rawhide Road saves about 15-20 minutes of driving time. It's always best to travel with a detailed map as cell service can still be spotty.

Hwy. 49 has more than its share of twists and turns and slow-moving vehicles. Relax and enjoy the ride. Remember, getting there is half the fun. If you've never driven to Yosemite via Hwy. 120 you may want to avoid Old Priest Grade. This incredibly steep, two-mile stretch of road is not for the weak-of-heart. We love it and wouldn't think of going any other way, but never with a trailer or motor home! Think about staying on Hwy. 120 on the west side of the canyon. This will meet Old Priest Grade at the top. About a six-mile trek, the New Priest Grade bypass is longer and somewhat winding, but the stress-free ascent can easily accommodate trailers and motor homes as it's the preferred route for tour buses.

If heading down the "vertical” Old Priest Grade, make sure your brakes are in good working order.

Hwy. 120 passes through the Gold Rush-era town of Groveland, an excellent pit-stop or place to stay outside the park if that's your choice. The 3-diamond Groveland Hotel has been greeting guests since 1849. All the rooms have been completely updated and are twenty-first century fresh. The new Groveland Provisions Taproom & Bourbon Bar provides small bites and libations.  The Iron Door Saloon claims to be the longest continuously operated drinking establishment in California. About 23 miles away is the Big Oak Flat entrance to the Yosemite National Park and you'll be required to purchase a $35 vehicle pass, valid for seven days.

Tip! Be sure to gas up before heading into Yosemite Valley. The last chances are in Big Oak Flat, Groveland, and Yosemite Lakes Road (Hardin Flat). There is another chance for fuel at Crane Flat inside the park.  Yosemite Valley Shuttles are not running in 2021. Check schedules for YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System.

 

Rearview Images

As we drive away from snow-crested Sierra,
Images of where we're going
Are not so beautiful as rearview images
Of where we've been.

April 2, 2006