Are You That Woman

Wild Rivers Coast: There’s a reason why

The sun was barely breaking through when fog began rolling in across the mouth of the Smith River. Where river and ocean unite – feels holy. Harbor seals, almost ghostly, gaze out across the shallow. A community of cormorants Zen(ly) attempt drying their wings. Brown pelicans and American oystercatchers share the spit. A lone angler casts again and again. He confides it’s been rumored salmon are running better on the Rogue and Klamath rivers. Still, he’s content. I watch with quiet respect and retreat once my camera is satiated.

Some 30 miles away, we walk a considerable sandspit separating the Klamath River from the Pacific Ocean. One more peaceful world, the lone inhabitants strolling or sitting quietly, we reverently contemplate this sacred space. The tide is returning and waves crash to the shore. A swift undertow – the cold water just licks my naked feet as I scramble away.  The Klamath has journeyed far – 263 miles from Southern Oregon – to wed itself to the churning ocean.

 

Morro Bay: Nature Sublime

Inhale. Watch the sun set behind Morro Rock, bark at sea lions, call to a night heron, and walk in silence beside a forest of pygmy oaks.  At every turn, open spaces and environmentally sensitive biomes of extraordinary splendor await.  Miles and miles of nature preserves, state parks, state beaches, and magical places with names like The Elfin Forest elevate Morro Bay’s allure.  From a waterfront perch at the Inn at Morro Bay, only one question emerges, “What next?” Mother Nature worked overtime to create this canvas.  It deserves all your attention.

Turn right out of the Inn’s parking lot. Head for Montaña de Oro State Park toward shoreline and estuary views.  In just a few miles, the road narrows; the “real” world drops away.  Some days are sunny.  Today, fog drapes the hillsides but without diminishing the heightened anticipation to reach Sandspit Beach – a four-mile “ecologically diverse” sand dune area separating Morro Bay from the Pacific Ocean.

One vehicle in the parking lot alludes to a park ranger, nowhere to be seen.  Out of your own four-wheeler, the world is quiet. You zigzag along with the boardwalk, along sensitive dunes dotted with sand verbena and lupine.  A slight rise in the dune and –  suddenly – stillness to crashing waves! A view that thrills you to the bone.

Breathe. One seriously long, deep breath of the fog, the mist, the ocean air.

See. Open your eyes, wide! Really, really wide to an abundance of sand, shore birds, ocean debris, wildflowers, pounding surf. Incredibly, you are the sole inhabitant on this expanse of beach inside Montaña de Oro State Park.  Imagine the coastal Chumash who once called this home.

Step. Follow the footprints – some four-footed – the comings and goings of previous visitors. The tide rushes up and laps at your feet, washing away remnants of your passing and those before you.

Gaze. Scan for signs of life. A troop of curlews hurries in and out of the surf chasing an elusive breakfast.  A band of brown pelicans rises and falls with the light as if on some unseen carnival ride.  Bashful snowy plovers sneak – left, right, left right – over dunes to  protected nesting ground.  A gang of turkey vultures nibble on the carcass of a dolphin, its mouth agape in a petrified smile.  Heartbreaking, still, it is the nature of things and now part of this memory.

Sun and fog debate which will prevail over today’s weather. Fog appears to be winning.  Though a distance away, you linger in hopes that Morro Rock will reappear through the mist. Not to be on this adventure. After a mile on the spit, it’s time to turn back.

A ghostly surfer slips the top of a wave, a solitary figure, as you depart. Exhale.

Top of the World

The Earth.
This place.
A mixture of gold and green
reclaimed by winter rains.
The sky.
Heavy.
A contrast of gray and white.
Sentinel oaks stand watch.
And the wind.
The wind.
Feel it. Taste it.
I stand at the top of the world.
Thankful.

Barbara L. Steinberg
Oakwilde Ranch & Sculpture
November 29, 2014

Stockton Boulevard’s Medical Mile

Along Stockton Boulevard, a mile-long complex of medical facilities, support systems and education and research centers put this district on the world map!  Teams of professionals and volunteers provide compassionate care to patients and families
and the community.

The Boulevard’s “medical mile” history dates back to 1871 with the relocation of the Sacramento County Hospital (aka Sacramento Medical Center).  With time and many changes, the Medical Center officially became the UC Davis Medical Center (2315 Stockton Boulevard) on July 1, 1978. Spread out over more than 142 acres, the campus is a nationally recognized academic medical center offering primary care for all ages, specialty care in 150 fields, and the latest treatment options and expertise for the most complex health conditions.

On April 14, 1997, Shriners Hospitals for Children – Northern California (2425 Stockton Boulevard) opened and accepted its first patient for care. A new era in treatment for children, the community welcomed Shriners with open arms. More than 70,000 children have been accepted for care since it opened.  The hospital has become the busiest pediatric burn center in Northern California and ranks with UC Davis Children's Hospital as one of the "Best Children's Hospitals" for pediatric orthopedics. Northern California Shriners Hospital treats children who have orthopedic conditions, burns, spinal cord injuries, cleft lip, need for specialized plastic surgery and other complex surgical needs.

The Firefighters Burn Institute (3101 Stockton Boulevard) is small but mighty. Built in 1933, the beautifully restored fire station was once home to Engine Company 9. Following the tragic 1972 Farrell’s Ice Cream Parlour plane crash, it became agonizingly clear that Sacramento lacked sufficient burn-treatment facilities to deal with such a catastrophe. Soon after, Sacramento Fire Department Captain Cliff Haskell and Firefighters Local 522 went on a fund-raising mission. The Firefighters Burn Institute was dedicated on Dec. 21, 1973.  A charitable foundation, the Institute works closely with Shriners Hospitals for Children – Northern California and UC Davis Medical Center. They fund continuing education and medical research for the staffs of both hospitals.

“In the beginning, the mission was to establish burn care, but then the aftercare became part of the mission,” said Mike Daw, executive director of the institute. “You go through your healing process. There’s not just surviving but there’s thriving, too. So we established other programs for burn survivors (including firefighters) so they can thrive to best of their abilities. We have camps for burn-survivor children, and a support group and retreat for adult burn survivors as well as additional programs.” 

These three shining stars have helped Stockton Boulevard thrive!

Falling for Yosemite Autumn is Awesome

Even during these trying Covid times, for most travelers, Labor Day signaled the unofficial end of summer. Vacations are over. Kids are back in school. It's the last bona fide summer holiday weekend and, from this point forward it's a slow, steady slide into the New Year.

Fall Equinox occurs around September 23rd each year. The sun crosses the celestial equator, from north to south, heralding the end of summer marking the official start of autumn. Days are getting shorter; shadows are longer; nights are cooler, and you can feel the change in the air. It's inspirational! It's also one of the best and most inspired times of year to visit Yosemite National Park!

When it comes to visiting Yosemite, fewer travelers visit in this off-season. Annually, millions of people throng to see the splendor of the granite cliffs, cascading falls, giant sequoias, and the grandeur made famous by the likes of John Muir and Ansel Adams. During late spring and throughout the summer months, Yosemite is teeming with guests from around the world. There's more traffic and making lodging reservations, especially within the park, can be a challenge. Post-summer, the visitor tide ebbs, and the park begins an unhurried progression into a seasonal hibernation. Fewer cars on the roads in, out, and around the park, are definitely a big plus. The availability of lodging – at all levels – is much more attainable.

Autumn weather remains comfy with daytime temps warm enough for shorts and river sandals; nights can be chilly but cozy – even more so as the fall season evolves. Changes in temperatures and weather should be considered when packing. Better to err on the conservative side – the layered approach is usually best – and remember, rain and early snows are always a possibility; come prepared.

Yosemite Valley is famous for its colorful dogwoods – shades of pink and red; and California live oaks turn a golden amber color mid-October to November. Throughout the season aspens adorn themselves with seasonal hues. The onset of autumn colors can't be timed. Lengthening nights and colder temperatures signal the change. So in other words, later in the season is better but is no guarantee. In the solitude and calm of the autumn season, you can be assured that Yosemite will not disappoint even the most ardent leaf peeper. Look for the landmark blazing red sugar maple near Yosemite Chapel. Take Tioga Road along the Merced River for some of the best fall foliage photo-ops.

Visitors should keep an eye out for mule deer and coyotes, which are now seen frequently as they move from the higher elevations of the Sierra Nevada down into Yosemite Valley. Bears should always be a concern – though not as frequently sighted. Do not leave any food or sunscreen, toothpaste, shampoo, lotion, gum, candy, and any other items that have a scent in your car. If camping, be certain to take precautions and use food storage lockers.

From Sacramento and foothill locations, you have easy access to one of California's most scenic byways, Hwy. 49. There's no better way to begin this fall foliage sojourn. As fall flourishes, sightings of color along Hwy. 49 are clearly an added attraction to this multi-hued escape.  Also known as the Golden Chain Heritage Corridor, Hwy. 49 passes through charming and historic towns. Allow time to enjoy the sights and an occasional stop at towns along the way. Amador City, Sutter Creek, Angels Camp, Sonora, and others offer outstanding opportunities for shopping, sightseeing, and maybe a fresh-baked loaf of bread or a glass of wine. California's past lives on in these Gold Rush-era gems. If you choose to bypass downtown Sonora's two-lane traffic, a detour on Rawhide Road saves about 15-20 minutes of driving time. It's always best to travel with a detailed map as cell service can still be spotty.

Hwy. 49 has more than its share of twists and turns and slow-moving vehicles. Relax and enjoy the ride. Remember, getting there is half the fun. If you've never driven to Yosemite via Hwy. 120 you may want to avoid Old Priest Grade. This incredibly steep, two-mile stretch of road is not for the weak-of-heart. We love it and wouldn't think of going any other way, but never with a trailer or motor home! Think about staying on Hwy. 120 on the west side of the canyon. This will meet Old Priest Grade at the top. About a six-mile trek, the New Priest Grade bypass is longer and somewhat winding, but the stress-free ascent can easily accommodate trailers and motor homes as it's the preferred route for tour buses.

If heading down the "vertical” Old Priest Grade, make sure your brakes are in good working order.

Hwy. 120 passes through the Gold Rush-era town of Groveland, an excellent pit-stop or place to stay outside the park if that's your choice. The 3-diamond Groveland Hotel has been greeting guests since 1849. All the rooms have been completely updated and are twenty-first century fresh. The new Groveland Provisions Taproom & Bourbon Bar provides small bites and libations.  The Iron Door Saloon claims to be the longest continuously operated drinking establishment in California. About 23 miles away is the Big Oak Flat entrance to the Yosemite National Park and you'll be required to purchase a $35 vehicle pass, valid for seven days.

Tip! Be sure to gas up before heading into Yosemite Valley. The last chances are in Big Oak Flat, Groveland, and Yosemite Lakes Road (Hardin Flat). There is another chance for fuel at Crane Flat inside the park.  Yosemite Valley Shuttles are not running in 2021. Check schedules for YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System.

 

Rearview Images

As we drive away from snow-crested Sierra,
Images of where we're going
Are not so beautiful as rearview images
Of where we've been.

April 2, 2006

Damond Lee: Creating New Memories at Stockton & Broadway

Ori

Originally published January 2020 Stockton Boulevard Partnership directory

A newcomer to Stockton Boulevard, OBA Kitchen was the neighborhood’s only Japanese restaurant when it opened in 2017. Master Chef and owner Damond Lee saw the potential for OBA with its ready-made regulars from Louie’s Chinese Restaurant a neighborhood favorite for 27 years. Damond, along with his partner and Executive Chef Billy Huang, remodeled the interior with wooden floors, rustic Japanese chairs, and colorful murals.

“After immigrating to California in 1992, I began working as a dishwasher at a Japanese restaurant in Alameda. I was mentored by the owner, Master Chef Yamamoto, who taught me how to make sushi. It became my passion and thought if I open a restaurant, this is what I want to do! Start-up costs in the Bay Area were too high – along with living expenses – so we moved to Sacramento. We’ve now owned and operated five successful Japanese Restaurants. I met and hired Billy Huang mentoring him to prepare sushi. An excellent chef, he creates all the Chinese dishes and daily Chef Specials at OBA.”

“When we were looking for another location, we saw that UC Davis was expanding and wanted to be part of the evolution. Stockton Boulevard Partnership has facilitated many improvements along the corridor and around our restaurant. It feels safer now. There’s been lots of support from the neighborhood and UC Davis. We kept some “honor items” from Louie’s, the Chinese restaurant that previously inhabited the space. For their devoted clientele, OBA still has Walnut Shrimp and General Chicken, among other Chinese-American classics.”

Damond Lee has created many memories in Sacramento’s dining scene. Before OBA, two additional restaurants, The Izakaya and Sushi Café, and more recently Shoku Ramen Bar, receive rave reviews. About any other restaurants, Damond says, “It’s about timing and economy – if the location is good – I’ll never shut the door and leave my options open.”

Saratoga Revealed

California byways never disappoint. Interstates and boulevards wind their way through the outskirts of San Jose to Big Basin Way and Saratoga Village. The small-town charm and pedestrian-friendly Main Street beckons visitors to walk and explore Saratoga's finest dining, wine tasting, art galleries, and fabulous retail. 

Close by, performing arts venues provide astounding entertainment including year-round and seasonal top-name performers. Historic gardens, hiking, horseback riding, wineries, and breathtaking views are just a few distractions to bring you back again and again.

Unwind and Snooze
Many years ago, Saratoga Oaks Lodge shed its 1955 motel cocoon and turned into a beautiful butterfly. From a single-queen room to two-room suites, it’s the ideal hibernation destination. Treehouse bungalows accommodate couples or groups; the perfect haven to de-stress following the day’s explorations. In-room whirlpool bathtubs and steam-bath showers help you find your bliss. Shaded by majestic oaks, balconies and garden patios are a joy any season. Amenities include microwave, mini-fridge, coffeemaker, free Wi-Fi, and modified continental breakfast.

Utterly tranquil, pour yourself into village wine tasting rooms Cinnabar Winery, Roudon Smith Winery, Ruth Roberts Wine Collective, and Uncorked.  Walking makes designated drivers obsolete. Nothing goes better with wine than luscious, handcrafted chocolates. Yes, this sinful pleasure is close enough to see and taste at Plumed Horse Chocolaterie by Angelica. Chocolate addicts, this is your new home. Angel’s career as a certified chocolatier was divine intervention. An artist since childhood, she taught herself the fine art and science of chocolate. Delicate works of art, each chocolate gem is hand-painted with colored cocoa butter. Angel created all the recipes - more than 25. Some of the favorites include salted caramel, passion fruit, jalapeno, strawberry, and Sprinkles are for Winners in the shape and flavor of a baby donut. 

Vineyards, Views & Performing Arts Preview
On the edge of the Santa Cruz Mountains, zigzagging and sometimes precipitous roads lead from Saratoga Village to stunning vistas, hidden gardens, and a captivating villa and chateau, vineyards, and tasting rooms. Be swept away by the magic!

Arriving at the regal Mountain Winery, you immediately understand why Paul Masson – the original owner – called it his "vineyard in the sky". Views of the Santa Cruz Mountains and Silicon Valley below are inspirational. A Saratoga landmark since the early 1900s, the world-class wines and cuisine, and summer concert series catapult Mountain Winery to the top of your bucket list! A sacred feeling exudes within the inner sanctum of the winery.   

Just a few miles away, sequestered on a hillside, the Mediterranean-style Montalvo Arts Center is another Saratoga jewel. The 175-acre estate offers extraordinary performing arts programs, year-round concert series, hiking trails, and gardens. Visitors are invited to discover miles of woodland hiking trails, and formal and informal gardens. Go in search of Sculpture on the Grounds – a multi-faceted installation of works of art.

Enjoy the music of waterfalls and Mother Nature at her finest at Hakone Estate & Gardens. Influenced by Buddhist and Zen cultures, this ever-changing 18-acre landscape presents something new each season. In spring and summer, multi-hued wisteria, azaleas, and rhododendron await. Delicate maples show their best fall colors. Winter brings a wall of camellias. The oldest Japanese and Asian estate garden in the Western Hemisphere, it is also a treasure of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Visitors wander the gardens and meditate on benches overlooking the koi pond or bamboo forest. Hakone also conducts several events including tea ceremonies and Maturi (Spring Festival).

Family-owned and operated since 1893, the 28-acre organic and sustainable Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards and Garrod Farms is an experience like no other. Just minutes from the village, enjoy scenic horseback-riding adventures through the vineyards and Fremont-Older Open Space Preserve followed by wine tasting and small bites on the shaded garden patio. 

Feasting
A stunning Victorian houses Bella Saratoga Restaurant. Superbly prepared Italian fare served in an intimate setting makes this a popular destination. Award-winning pastas, local vegetables, fresh fish, filet mignon, and pizzas – plates are bountiful so come hungry. Fronted by a lovely covered patio, ask about dining alfresco in spring and summer.

Haute cuisine! Haute décor! The Michelin-rated Plumed Horse is that. The ambiance exudes chic elegance and comfort. Draped in golden light and warm woods – dining rooms are elegantly decorated – a visual feast. Feel free to roam and ogle the towering wine cellar housing more than 1,800 wines from around the world. But brace yourself! You are about to be treated to gastronomic artistry. Every berry, vegetable, meat, fish, wild game, sauce, and dessert is painstakingly plated. Executive Chef Peter Armellino’s fresh seasonal menus will captivate your palate. Fourteen years on both the tasting and entrée menus, the signature Black Pepper and Parmesan Soufflé, served with uni and Dungeness crab, is the most requested dish. Open Wednesday-Sunday, 5:00 to 10:00 pm. Reservations are available only online and require a three-day advance cancellation. 

One Last Tip
Cyclists adore road trips up Highway 9 into the Santa Cruz Mountains. At Big Basin Café, a wide selection of fresh-roasted coffees and specialty drinks make this a perfect locale for a morning wander or post-bike ride hangout. 

 

Also published: Mountain Democrat and Outdoor Writers Association of California 

Retreat to Fern Canyon Trail in Mendocino County California

Silence . 

Eyes closed. The stillness beats in your ears. The hammering Mendocino ocean surf is replaced by giggling streams and fern grotto waterfalls. Blue skies and sunshine swallowed by towering redwoods, ferns and moss – kept lush by the dark, dank, and cold of this rainforest environment. Walking more than five miles in this tranquil woodland, you are alone on the planet. The silence broken mostly by small bird voices and a lone tree frog far and away. Other hikers occasionally cross your path with a nod and a smile.

The magic and spirit of Fern Canyon Trail at Russian Gulch State Park is ancient. Life here began long before humans breathed on this Earth. Despite human intervention, its mystical soul survives. Worth the ascent, the north trail (2.6 miles) is up and over and gets heart and lungs pumping for the Fern Canyon waterfall trail (another .7 miles). Loop back along the flat bike trail.

Slowly come to your senses as you leave this dreamscape behind.

 

Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary is still one of a kind

To say there is nothing like Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary is not far from the truth. It is the only cedar enzyme bath in the United States. An experience like no other, there are hardly words to describe the sublime nature of this Japanese therapy. This coupled with the beautiful gardens and atmosphere of the sanctuary, well, you must see it to understand just how special it is. From the moment you enter, you should feel all stress begin to fall away.

Once you have donned your cotton kimono, your personal attendant tends to your every need. Gaze out on the bonsai garden as you relax and enjoy your enzyme tea. Once enveloped in the enzyme bath you'll be wondering why you hadn't done this sooner, and asking yourself, "How soon can I do this again?"

Following the bath, continue to unwind with a massage or simply partake of the meta-sync music, eye pillow, and a 30-minute nap.

I am fortunate to have enjoyed Osmosis more than once over the years. The addition of the Japanese Meditation Garden....could it get any better? Yes, and it did with the addition of the Field of Hammocks! 

Osmosis is a treat. Enjoy it alone. With friends. With a lover. Some would say the experience is pricey; that's misleading. It's not inexpensive, but it's worth the cost and certainly much less expensive than other spas I have visited. The experience and ambiance are over the top.

If you're lucky enough to indulge Friday through Monday, be sure to visit Wild Flour Bread across the road. This bakery is to bread what Osmosis is to the "ahhh" in spa.

Take your time. Enjoy the drive to this darling hamlet in west Sonoma County. You'll want to find a place to stay nearby and let all that wonderfulness take over. Unwind. Let go. And let Osmosis.